This 100km, 10-day trek in Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia is one of the world's best - especially if you like ice. The Patagonian Ice Cap, three massive glaciers and iceberg-clogged rivers and lakes are among the highlights. Others include a spectacular mountainscape, rising abruptly from vast empty plains, ancient forests, wind-churned lakes and remote flower meadows. This is also considered to be Torres del Paine's most difficult trek, and challenges include:
The Weather
The John Gardner Pass on the Circuit is above the snow line, and it can also be extremely windy. If the weather is very bad, you will have to wait at Dickson Regugio or Grey Refugio for it to improve.
Wet Feet
Sections of deep bog are impossible to avoid, so unless you carry a change of footwear, hiking with wet feet will be another challenge.
Carrying a Tent
There are no refugios on the John Gardner Pass, which takes two to four days to trek, so you'll have to carry a tent, a warm sleeping bag and food.
That said, speaking as an occasional trekker who has completed the Circuit, it's really not as difficult as it sounds unless you're very unlucky with the weather. The climb up to the Pass isn't particularly steep; there's no altitude sickness to worry about; and you don't have to carry water as you can top up from the rivers. Yes, it is cold, and I do remember sleeping in my boots and a woolly hat one night, and the wind can be a pain, but I actually found the Torres del Paine W Trek more demanding, as the climbs are steeper.
Where to Stay
There are five refugios (lodges) with campsites attached, two other manned campsites and four unmanned campsites. They are as follows:
Camp Séron
9km from Torres Central and Norte
Campsite with a small shop. Mosquito hotspot.
Camp Coiron
9km from Camp Séron
Unmanned free campsite. No facilities.
Refugio Dickson
10km from Camp Coiron
Beautifully situated refugio and campsite with plenty of facilities, including a shop. Friendly.
Camp Los Perros
9km from Refugio Dickson
Manned campsite set in cold damp ancient woodland. Very Tolkienesque. Cold showers.
Camp El Paso
12km from Los Perros
Quite exposed free unmanned campsite.
Camp Los Guardas
6km from Camp El Paso
Free unmanned campsite.
Refugio Grey
4km from Camp Los Guardas
Busy refugio with plenty of facilities. Attractions include a restaurant, hot showers and a beach.
Paine Grande Mountain Lodge
11km from Grey Mirador
Torres del Paine's biggest refugio has hot showers, a restaurant, a bar, and even internet access.
If you're worn out and fed up, you can leave the Circuit here by Catamaran across Pehoe Lake.
Campamento Italiano
7.6km from Grey Mirador
Free unmanned campsite in woodland.
Refugio Los Cuernos
3.5 km from Camp Italiano
Like many of the refugios that are also on the W Trek, Los Cuernos is very well-equipped with separate mini-lodges, a restaurant, a shop, and a hot tub.
Refugios Las Torres
11km from Refugio Los Cuernos
Two refugios with campsites attached. There's a restaurant at Refugio Torre Central. Catch the free shuttle bus from here to the park entrance, where you can catch a bus back to Puerto Natales.
Costs
Torres del Paine is not cheap. Camping costs around $9 a night at manned campsites and refugios cost about $40 a night for a bed in a multi-occupancy room - $90 including full board. If you want to push the boat out, Hosteria Grey (www.lagogrey.cl/), on the other side of Grey Lake from Grey Refugio has doubles from $120. It's also a good idea to bring your own food. Remember that food has to be carried in on horseback to some of the more remote refugios, and prices reflect this. Rubbish too, has to be carried back, so if you must have Coca Cola, take it with you, or you'll pay the price.
